• The Much Needed Plight of Backing Up Your Photos

    The Much Needed Plight of Backing Up Your Photos

    Over the last few years I lived in many different locations and used different computer equipment, not acknowledging the crucial need for backing up data. My photographic repository was messy. It involved random USB hard drives, SSDs, a desktop computer and a few laptops I changed every two years. At some point, I went back to analogue photography which required digitising the negatives. It only added to the overall hullabaloo of my photo catalogue. At least two times I was close to losing large parts of it. Some time ago, I decided to do something about it and experimented with different hardware and software solutions. In this post, I am sharing my discoveries and providing possible solutions, depending on your needs, budget and physical constraints.

    DAS: advantages and constraints

    Among other companies, OWC provides numerous Desktop Attached Storage (DAS) solutions. Most of their dual-, quattro- and octa-bay solutions are software RAID ones. It means that you either need to use OWC proprietary SoftRAID software or rely on your OS capabilities. As for the former, not all products come with a license. Those that do have it only for three years. SoftRAID is pricey and offer little to no advantage over the latter option. Using tools embedded into MacOS or Windows sounds far more straightforward. Especially for MacOS users, the ability to create encrypted APFS drives is tempting as it provides a good level of protection on a daily basis. Imagine leaving a disk enclosure on your desk in a busy workplace shared by many random people. Anyone with a laptop and a right port (USB-A, USB-C/Thunderbolt) can access your data with no restrictions. This point is something that Windows users should be particularly mindful of. Microsoft’s encryption mechanism, BitLocker, works only on basic disks. It means that no software-based RAID volume one creates (either for redundancy or increased capacity and speed) can be BitLocker-encrypted. BitLocker can only be used with single drives. While for some it can be a major issues, for other it might become a minor limitation.

    I have used several enclosures from OWC. Mercury Elite Pro Dual has worked best for compatibility reasons. It utilises USB 3.2 interface, making it accessible from most desktops, laptops and tablets out there. It also gives a modest port expansion, acting like a hub. What I particularly like about this enclosure is that it hosts a hardware RAID controller which makes it independent from any software-based solution. Once you populate it with drives, power it on, set the desired RAID mode and press one button, it automatically prepares the drives to be used.

    As for software RAID options, I owned OWC’s Gemini Thunderbolt 3. It might be a faster option due to its THunderbolt 3 functionality (technically, it offers up to 40 Gbps transfer rates) and an even broader selection of ports, including an SD card reader. The downside of this enclosure is its limited compatibility and the mentioned lack of software RAID. I am very pleased with the Thunderbay 4 Mini, though. It hosts four 2.5-inch SATA HDDs and SSDs. As it includes two Thunderbolt ports, it can either be daisy-chained with another storage devices or provide connectivity for other peripherals plus a modest 15W charging capacity. The main TB port offers 27 watts, which suffices for the Apple Silicon Macbook Air lineup.

    The main downside of all OWC enclosures I have used is the fan noise. For some reason, OWC uses basic Sunon fans in most of their products. I have seen units with Noctua fans in them, but they are rare. Since the connector on the OWC mainboards is not a standard 4-pin one, replacing the loud fan requires a bit of tinkering. I did it and it works flawless. My Thunderbay 4 Mini is now almost dead quiet as I populated with with SSDs.

    NAS: extra cost might be worth it

    Network Attached Storage uses a similar form factor to DAS but is primarily built to operate together in an environment where multiple devices and users need to have access to the same files. In the case of DAS, synchronisation and cross-platform compatibility can be a nuisance. DAS usually relies on user’s own software solutions. If you use Windows, want to encrypt your drives with BitLocker and prefer NTFS over anything else, you will either have to buy expensive MacOS software to access your data from a Mac or will have to duplicate your files using a different piece of hardware. On top of that, forget about unimpeded access from your mobile devices.

    This is where NAS comes in handy. It offers a standalone software and hardware system accessible form your local network and, after fulfilling certain conditions, the internet. It is basically a full-fledged computer with an operating system run via web browser. So good so far but where is the catch? Its speed depends on a number of components: RJ-45 ports on the NAS itself (these days ranging mostly from 1 Gbit all the way to 10 Gbits), your router’s/switch’s speed, type of connection with end clients (Wi-fi or LAN), type and speed of drives installed, as well as the way they are configured. Be prepared: getting it all nice and quick will cost you a lot of money. At best, you might have to buy a 5/10 Gbit RJ-45 to USB-C adapter. At worst, you will have to invest a hefty sum into more peripherals or even get a new computer.

    My personal favourite is Synology. It is not only the quality of hardware and how intuitive the initial setup is (adding drives, expansions cards, additional RAM etc.), but also the DSM ecosystem. I own two NAS enclosures from Synology: the two-bay DS-720+ (there is a newer version available, DS-723+) and the four-bay DS-923+. The former acts as a backup storage for the latter, which in turn hosts a copy of all my stationary files and recovery backups of the system drives of my computers. Over the years, this solution has worked best for me. I have access to my projects from any location as long as at least one of the NASes is up and running. I also do not have to concern myself with synchronising files – it is done automatically thanks to Synology Drive Client.

    Seven hints from me

    Here are some pieces of practical advice based on my experience:

    • The 3-2-1 rule is a bare minimum. There is no such things as too many backups providing you have control over them. A good backup needs to stay up-to-date, be easily accessible and offer straightforward restore options.
    • Be mindful about your needs and the conditions in which you will store your physical backups. More drives means more noise, more energy consumption, more space taken on your desk and more risk of something going wrong. Buying a sophisticated system with a very high capacity makes sense only if you know you will utilise it either immediately or fill it up over your system’s lifespan as…
    • Every HDD and SSD will fail one day. You can extend their functioning by turning them off when unused, ensure right operating environments (lowering ambient temperatures, improving airflow and eradicating humidity). Still, do not rely on only one drive, be it mechanical or silicone. RAID 1/5/6 configurations offer you some degree of protection against losing your data in a cafe of drive failure. If you go for any of these, they will to a large extent determine the architecture of your setup, such as the number of driver, their capacity or type of enclosure you want to go for. They will also constitute the lion’s share of your initial costs. You might think that going for a small, two-bay NAS with, for instance, 18 TB drives configured in RAID 1 might be cheaper than same capacity setup in four- or six-bay enclosure set to RAID 5 but it might not hold true. Four 6 TB HDDs (3 plus 1 for redundancy) will most likely cost lest than two behemoths of 18 TB each.
    • Online cloud services can only provide a short-term solution to the challenge of working with many large files. If your internal hard drive is small and you have to download large files as you work on them, you will need a reliable and speedy internet connection. In most cases, however, it will still be too slow to meet your needs especially if you are on the go, need to work on a large repository of files and do not trust external drives (it is so easy to lose them, after all). Consider investing a larger internal SSD (in this day and age 2 TB does not sound crazy). I know it is a costly thing to do, especially for Mac users who need to make this decision at the time of purchasing their device.
    • Encryption is essential for both mobile and stationary working environment. It is understandable that you want you data to be safe on the go as it is not unseen to lose your ultra portable, tiny SSD. Yet it is equally important to know that your stationary storage, be it a NAS, an external desktop enclosure or just drive you keep in your desk drawer are not an open book when falling into the wrong hands.
    • NAS is an attractive option to keep your files accessible from anywhere in the world and synchronised across your devices if you work with other large storage pools. It can also be a reliable backup option, depending on the way you configure your NAS storage pool. It also offers the widest cross-platform compatibility possible as the file systems it utilises are not an obstacle in accessing your files from different devices, such as Windows, Linux and Mac computers, as well as Android and iOS/iPadOS phones and tablets.
    • High quality hardware can save you from really big trouble and ensure stable performance over long time periods. Most hard drive companies have a dedicated enterprise series of their HDDs. They have longer running times, often stretching to 2,500,000 hours, offer large cache and ensure compatibility with NAS devices. The differences in price-to-gigabyte ratio are often small enough to neglect them.

    As I am writing this post, Thunderbolt 5 is making its way into consumer electronics. In early to mid-2025, there is only a modest albeit a growing selection of desktops and notebooks with TB5 ports. It’s only a matter of time when devices such as DAS hit the market. They can deliver substantial progress when it comes to speed with their 80 Gbps (dynamically expandable to 120 Gbps if needed) bidirectional bandwidth. 10 GB/s of transfer means that using external NVMe enclosures will allow these disks to run at their full speed. It also means that multi-drive pools of SATA SSDs can become a fast and an affordable way of storing and processing large amounts of data.

    Featured image source: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Exabyte_EXATAPE_AME_8mm_Data_Cartridge.jpg

  • The Difficult Yet Rewarding Love for My Pentacon Six

    The Difficult Yet Rewarding Love for My Pentacon Six

    Exploring medium format analog photography can bring a lot of joy, especially if you need a breathe of It was the unusually dark winter of 2023/2024 when I felt something was lacking in my everyday photographic experience. I was under the impression I was taking too many digital photos. They were too sterile, too technically perfect for me not only to enjoy the end result but, most of all, to indulge in the process. I made efforts to creatively use my 35mm cameras, predominantly the still excellent Contax 139 Quartz, but it brought me little joy. Contax was wonderful for travelling and journal-like documenting sites and people, but that was not I was yearning for.

    City walks with a 35mm camera are fun but they stopped giving me enough satisfaction.

    Then, one early March Saturday, I went to a nearby park carrying my Zenza Bronica SQ-Ai to try to catch the scarcity of foliage and the sleepiness of animals and humans alike on a dark, foggy day. They results enchanted me and provide a strong boost in confidence that the medium format offers an intimately rewarding experience, bridging the mechanical and the artistic under favourable circumstances. The Zenza was, however, too heavy and too large for carrying it around and using it spontaneously. The shots I made in the park were made possible by the laziness of the day, time to compose them, adjust all the settings and use a tripod to get bullet-proof results.

    One of the photos I took with Zenza Bronica SQ-Ai in the winter of 2024.

    The park outing and the weather I experienced throughout the day made me think of my frequent journeys to Lübeck, the former inner-German border and the contemporary Danish-German borderland. Toghether with my students, we talk there about the legacy of the Hanseatic League, which provided an early sense of broader cultural unity in vast parts of medieval Baltic Europe, the turbulent history of European nation-states, always fighting with one another, and the Cold War division of the continent, serving as the most recent example of how devastating and painful the lack of unity of small political entities can be.

    Former East Germany has been taking a growing amount of space in my courses at DIS Study Abroad. Its history keeps providing me with new topics, both relating to the complex European history and the current challenges, such as the rise of populist movements in the European Union and longing for the bygone days, shared by millions of people all across the continent. It is all encapsulated in a country that, many would say, should have never existed and yet it became home to millions of German whether they wanted it or not. For this reason, its ghost still looms over large parts of Central Europe so absurdly inconspicuous yet tangibly dangerous.

    Delving into the East German reality from late 1940s all the way to 1990 — the year the country disappeared, annexed by the Federal Republic — helped me discover many marvellous works of culture from all across the Soviet-dominated countries. The particular gems were daring movies, like Spur der Steine and Das Kanninchen bin ich, debating the moral legitimacy of the communist rule in the German Democratic Republic and how the changing interpretation of the only ideology allowed in the country affected people’s lives and their personal choices. The movies’ value lies also in beatiful camerawork which is a merit in its own right.

    Building on those personal discoveries, I came across a masterpiece of black-and-white-Polish cinema, Patrząc pod słońce. It tells the story of a couple spending their holidays somewhere on the Baltic Sea coast. One can tell there is a heavy cloud of tension between the woman, young and curious, and the man, somewhat too used to his own ways. One day when he goes fishing, the woman takes a bath in the lake and feels she is being watched. Initially concerned, she lets the curiosity take the better of her. She finds out the watcher is an oddly behaving man. It is hot and yet he wears a thick sweater. He seems only moderately interested in the protagonist, looking at her predominantly through the lens of his camera. This camera, naturally, caught my eye. After researching it for a while, I identified it as an early version of the medium-format Pentacon Six.

    My copy of the Pentacon Six with Carl Zeiss Jena 80mm f/2.8 MC Biometar lens

    This is where my personal fascination began. I went on looking for rather scarce information about this piece of East German engineering, usually stumbling upon reports of users complaining about its unreliability. It is heavy and suffers from not-so-ergonomically designed grip and controls. Its common disease are kissing frames due to the unreliable film advancing mechanism. It needs to be in constant use to prevent the lubricants from going stale. It can only sync flash at around 1/25s, making it difficult to use in the studio. One last small inconvenience is the lack of built-in lightmeter. It can be easily overcome with the help you your smartphone, though. Among many apps Lghtmtr is the one that ticks most boxes. It is lightweight, simple and free. I even recommend it to my students whenever they use their old Prakticas. Although these cameras do have a light meter, their reliability and accuracy are somewhat dubious.

    Despite all the shortcomings, I could not resist buying a Pentacon Six of my own. I went on searching and found a few listings of cameras and lenses in very good aesthetic condition. I knew that no matter which unit I would go for, it would require thorough servicing. For this reason, I could get a comprehensive set for half its original price. It immediately created the question of finding a repair place, which was far more challenging than acquiring the camera itself. Since it is not a Pentax, Hasselblad or even Bronica, most places neither possess necessary experience nor are willing to give it a try. Apparently, there are some places in former East Germany but by the time I came across them, I had gone a different route: I had found a place in Ukraine which builds on the experience of the Kiev 88 camera which the Soviets had created based on the original Pentacon Six design. It is clunkier and uglier, but its guts are essentially the same as the East German ones. So, the whole set went to Kyiv, was serviced there and returned to me with the help of my Ukrainian friends. A great testimony to how the Ukrainian postal services work despite the ongoing Russian aggression.

    I have resisted saying this long enough but I cannot continue any longer, so let me shout it out: Pentacon Six is a beautiful, exquisite camera. It retains the reserved, swelve shapes typical for industrial design of the late fifties and early sixties, giving the user the tactile pleasure of interacting with mild, friendly curves rather than rough, aggressive edges. For this reason, although the body is made from metal, it provides me with a sense of warmth and cordiality, inviting me to fully immerse into the shooting experience. It is a bit like wearing a good watch inherited after your grandparents: you appreciate the craftsmanship of the decision and the precision of the mechanism every time you wear it.

    I distinctively remember my first walk with this camera. It was a bright summer day in Copenhagen, with people pouring into the narrow streets of the historical centre where my university is located. There was joy and laughter around which only encouraged me to spontaneously capture spontaneity of a northern city enjoying one of very few moments of warmth and sun.

    Walking around an unusual camera evokes many positive reactions.

    By the end of the first roll, the sky turned lead in a blink and a wall of rain rammed the streets and pavements. Just seconds before it began I took a shot of an ultrarare NSU Prinz outside of the Nørreport Station. Since the P6 and the system’s lenses are by no means weather-sealed, I had to put my personal explorations to a halt.

    The West German NSU Prinz is probable as rare these days as my Pentacon Six.

    After the first enchantment came first signs of potential hardship. A few days later I was doing my first studio session with the P6. As the flash sync speed is just about 1/25s (about because there is only a lightning pictogram between 1/15s and 1/30s), I had to work exclusively with constant light sources. This was, actually, the good part of the exercis as the slightly altered conditions created different dynamics in the studio and required of me to rethink the usual setup and come up with new ideas for composition. The slightly difficult one was experiencing what many people had reported about: the kissing frames. As I was going through the developed negatives, I noticed some photos being unusually close to each other, sometimes even overlapping. Although most frames were usable after doing some cropping, some very promising ones turned out irretrievable.

    Truth be told, this problem can be overcome by patience. One can easily find tutorials on how to insert new film tightly so that the advancement mechanism works correctly, like this one. They all advise to be methodically slow and attentive. I, on the other hand, recall changing the negative hectically, instinctively treating the P6 like the Zenza Bronica I had owned for a few years already. If only I had been more meticulous in the process, I would have not a long series of overlapping images. Yet I do not want to be too harsh on myself — it is all part of the film shooting charm. The analogue process requires much involvement in every step on the way, which feels like a liberating experience in times of the digital you-can-edit-me-whenever-and-however-you-please workflow.

    My P6 performed well during its first studio photoshoot. Model: Sonia.

    Another thing that one needs to pay attention to avoid unpleasant surprises when shooting with the P6 is the film advance knob. It needs to be pulled all the way and then brought back to its initial position in a slow, gentle way. Doing it quickly and somewhat carelessly might result in distorted spacing between frames (ut supra) or can even damage the whole film advancement mechanism. Places like Foto Service Olbrich can address this problem but it is bound to come back and haunt you again after some time.

    The shooting experience is otherwise smooth and intuitive which I saw immediately after developing and scanning the first rolls of film. Quality of the correctly taken frames was short of mind-blowing. The Carl Zeiss Jena 80mm f/2.8 I used rendered details that I rarely see from an analogue lens, regardless of its provenience — Eastern bloc, West Germany, Japan included. The texture and the level of details were further enhanced by the scanner. Nikon LS 9000 ED is perhaps an inherent part of any analogue medium format setup as it contains something many other devices, including the Plustek OpticFilm 120, do not: autofocus capability of the scanning lens. This, paired with glass negative folder, allows me to bring out the best of the pictures I take with all my vintage equipment.

    Look at the texture of the veil Sonia is wearing. Made possible by the combination of the Biometar lens, Lomography Potsdam 100 and the Nikon LS 9000 ED scanner.

    The last thing I was lacking to fully enjoy my Pentacon Six was a proper strap. It came without one and, since the camera is rather heavy and not very handy, constantly carrying it around in my hand would have been neither convenient nor safe. The P6 uses Pentax 67 / Hasselblad lugs which makes good quality straps difficult to find and expensive. Luckily, I reminded myself of Ricardo da Silva and his Dead Cameras shop. I had bought his straps before and had always been happy with their outstanding quality of craftsmanship and versatility of everyday use. Ricardo quickly advised me on the strap I should get and a few days later it arrived in Denmark (impressive given I came all the way from Portugal). There is some distinctive softness of the materials Ricardo uses which makes me come back to Dead Camera every now and then. The strap I got complements the Pentacon Six so well it has become an inherent part of the shooting experience.

    Sonia again and the retro look we managed to achieve through a combination of factors.

    Speaking of shooting experience: the Pentacon Six makes me appreciate the purely mechanical design it represents — from film advance cogs and focusing to adjusting exposure values and releasing the shutter. The latter gives an audibly punching clap but it does not cause the camera to shake. It is probably due to its heftiness which overpowers the sizeable mirror by a considerable margin and helps you make sure that your hand-held photos will turn out sharp and crisp even if you use somewhat low shutter speeds (1/60s, perhaps even 1/30s) and high focal length lenses. The lenses deserve a separate post as their quality exceed the often modest prices for which you can get them. For now, let me just say the Carl Zeiss Jena lineup ticks most of the boxes. It can even be adapted to modern digital camera mounts, such as Canon EF-S, Canon R and Sony E/FE.

    As I am writing these words, I am preparing for another trip to Lübeck. My P6 is lying next to me, waiting to be tucked into my rucksack. ‘Tucked’ is perhaps out of place here, since such a hefty camera can only be put into any bag with some efforts. This love requires patience and attentiveness but it is so rewarding it must be true.

    If you have ideas for a photoshoot, email me or use this form.

  • Ghosts of Ponarth 2

    Over the last months, I have been revising the manuscript of my book on memory politics in post-Soviet Kaliningrad Oblast. While looking at spatial changes in post-1946 Kaliningrad city, which was called Königsberg before that, my eyes turned to Ponarth, the city’s southern suburbs, spared from destruction.

    As it often happens, I re-scanned the negatives and reflected upon them instead of pushing the manuscript forward in a more direct way. It is a story of an urban Atlantis in former East Prussia which, although damaged and transformed, continues to live in a sea of growing hatred towards alternative, non-state-sanctioned views at the past of a once multicultural, multiethnic and multi-religious East Prussian oikumene.

    Pre-war buildings continue to exist in Ponarth although decades of negligence have taken their toll.

    In mid- to late 19th century, Ponarth was a true signum temporis. East Prussia, a province of Kingdom of Prussia and, since 1981, German Empire, was predominantly rural, with few towns larger than 5,000 inhabitants. Its capital Königsberg was an exception to this rule. It was created as a fortress during the medieval conquest of pagan Prussians by the Teutonic Knights. The city quickly became a trade outpost located a the Pregel River estuary, as well as a cultural centre. When the last Grand Master Albrecht Hohenzollern secularised the Order and pronounced himself the first duke of Prussia, the ongoing advancement of Reformation fuelled local explosion of religious writing in languages of the believers. Polish and Lithuanian found their way into Königsberg’s university, the Albertina.

    The city’s ties with Cracow, Vilnius, Gdańsk and Warsaw in the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth were stronger than those with Berlin in the Duchy of Brandenburg and, later on, Kingdom of Prussia. The birth of modern European nationalism, however, changed everything. Wars than Prussia fought in 1860s and in 1870s led to the establishment of united and ambitious German Empire. Just like in the case of Italy a decade earlier, although German nation-state was finally created, it still needed its inhabitants to feel a strong bond with this new political entity.

    What helped was the railway. Until the early 20th century, mostly rural East Prussia enjoyed dense connections with other parts of the country. It led to mass-scale migration of East Prussians to factories in west Germany. If you are a fan of football, you surely know Borussia Dortmund. The club’s name is nothing less than the Latin name of (East) Prussia.

    It was the pursuit for unified German identity that first put the East Prussian microcosm at risk. The push for ethnic, linguistic and cultural unification grew after the First World War when the province was separated from the rest of Germany, becoming a semi-exclave. An area that had always lied at the intersections of different worlds was to exemplify purest Germanness. When Hitler came to power, this axiom overclouded most of the memory of recent heterogeneity of the country’s easternmost province.

    Factory chimneys look odd in a place where most industry was either shutdown or moved to other region of the post-war Soviet Union as part of the reparation programme.

    But let me come back to Ponarth alone. Industrialisation of the province was selective and mostly affected Königsberg and its surroundings. This is how Ponarth was born. It was the city’s southern suburb, located conveniently by a railway hub. In turn, factories provided fertile ground for the development of residential quarters. In just three decades, Ponarth transformed into a full-fledged, bustling city district as its population rose 18 times — from 450 inhabitants in 1871 to over 8,000 in 1900.

    I got interested in Ponarth when I was posted to Kaliningrad as a Polish diplomat. It was the fall of 2020. New wave of covid-19 pandemic was rising. There were not many group activities one could engage oneself in. Taking my camera, staying within the city and walking around was as safe as it was exciting.

    Ponarth’s old brewery.

    I was amazed by the initial, seeming congruence of pre-war urban planning and the existence of pre-war building with the new Soviet and Russian layer of social life in Ponarth. The moment I got off my car and set foot at a street surrounded by regular and modest brick houses, covered in asphalt with high kerbs and many 20- and 30-year-old cars parked alongside, I knew I was in a place that was not what it seemed.

    Seeing Eastern European-style street market opposite a redbrick neo-gothic Protestant-turned-Eastern-Orthodox church, inscriptions in Cyrillic and people wearing typical Russian clothes made me feel odd although I was used to seeing that during the years I had researched identity-related processes in Kaliningrad. I saw discomfort mixed with a feeling of belonging to a place still foreign architecture-wise, developed over merely 75 years of the Soviet and Russian history of this place. Given the fact that Ponarth was founded as a village in the Teutonic Knights times, those three generations accounted for merely one tenth of its existence. And it showed.

    In the Soviet reality, churches like the one above could only be spared by using them for non-religious purposes, such as concert halls, theatres, warehouses and houses of culture. When the Soviet Union collapsed and the Orthodox Church entered a formal and increasingly tight relationship with the Russian state, many pre-war building in East Prussia were given to the Church and transformed into places of Orthodox worship. Traditionally, they would have gold-plated (gilded) onion domes which look rather opulent. Adding them to Ponarther Kirche creates a contradiction between the austere Protestant aesthetic and the Eastern Orthodox lusciousness. Look up the interior online and the dissonance will become even greater.

    Despite all streets and public places were renamed after the war, it is not uncommon for Ponarth’s inhabitants to use historic names. The name of the district itself proves it.

    I decided to write about Ponarth again because of developments in Russia related to memory politics I have been closely following. The material and spiritual legacy of East Prussia, treated with hostility and suspicion already in the Soviet times but spontaneously explored by Kaliningrad Oblast’s inhabitants, has again become an object of criticism due to the shrinking space for grassroots initiatives that do not follow the line set out by the federal authorities somewhere around 2012–2015. It was the time when last mass protests took place across the country. Concerned about their scale, the Kremlin embarked on a series of identity-related policies while crushing any signs of political opposition. We saw a tragic postscript to these processes in mid-February.

    The battle over different interpretations of collective memory about what is and used to be Russia has become even more fierce in a region that has been part of the country for merely three quarters of a century. The Oblast is to become a role model for contemporary Russian civilisation which not only protects its canonical territory but also has the vital strength to expand onto what was once part of the Western (German, European, Protestant or Western Orthodox — you name it) civilisation in the Huntingtonian sense of the term.

    This logic suggests that places like Ponarth with its eclectic past and present should disappear in one war or another. It could happen by gradual liquidation of objects that still remind the district’s non-Soviet and non-Russian past. It could also mean more traditional Russian architecture, such as white-and-gold Eastern Orthodox churches, museum telling the glorious past of imperial and Soviet Russia and by massive, multi-storey blocks of flats that span all over the country — from Kaliningrad to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy.

    In contemporary Russia, space for such small enclaves of modest diversity as Ponarth is shrinking dramatically. Does it mean that the tension between the past that has not disappeared entirely and presence that is becoming increasingly oppressive will ease? I doubt it. Oftentimes top-bottom attempts to accelerate the natural apace of assimilation with and internalisation of new cultural surroundings lead to feeling of belonging even less.

    The principal question is how to come to terms with the fact that the dominating role of the Russian language and culture is still a new phenomenon from the perspective of the last 800 years. Russia’s current political regime might change at some point but how will it affect situation on the ground in Kaliningrad? Will new federal authorities see a value in the remaining traces of diversity of a region that had once been full of different tongues, religions and ethnicities?

    I hope to come back to these questions soon in a different story, this time about the village of Pribrezhnyi not far away from Kaliningrad. There, Soviet times star at you from every corner in a depressing way. In Pribrezhnyi, you can see that the pre-1945 humble rural reality of East Prussia feels like a surprisingly attractive reference point given the level of contemporary decay. Just 25 kilometres from the border of the European Union, it is a strikingly accurate sample of where things stand in today’s Russia.

  • Ghosts of Ponarth 1

    Back in 2020, shortly after the second wave of COVID-19 hit Russia, I went to Ponarth to learn more about one of the two parts of Königsberg that survived the war only slightly damaged. What I saw there is now more relevant than ever due to Russian authorities’ oppressive memory politics. The spirit of old Ponarth still looms in the air but it is quickly disappearing.

    Pre-war Ponarth, contrary to Amalienau/Hufen, was not held in high esteem. There were neither elegant fin-de-siècle villas nor representative public buildings there that Soviet military and civilian officials could take into possession. Yet Ponarth has something else to offer — the intimacy of an area away from the city centre where contrasts between the pre-war East Prussian and the post-war Soviet pasts are deeper, more pronounced and yet more harmonically embedded into everyday life of the district’s dwellers.

    Ponarth has been separated from the rest of the city by the Pregel River together with its flood waters and meadows it creates. It flows through Kaliningrad Oblast and finds its way to the Vistula Lagoon just outside of Kaliningrad. It sounds straightforward but the Pregel is a peculiar and capricious river. It starts where two other streams — Angerapp and Alle — join. At some point along the way, the current becomes so strong and the amount of water so large that the Pregel bifurcates into the Pregel proper and the Deime. Yet it was still not enough to keep the element at bay. Just outside of Kaliningrad, water flow gets so immense that the river meanders, creating islands and meadows so swampy that they remain largely uninhabited, serving only as summer houses and fishing spots.

    A Protestant-turned-Eastern-Orthodox Ponarth Church. Notice the gold-plated onion domes.

    The Pregel has behaved this way for centuries. Its wildness and capriciousness probably got envisaged in the name of an old Prussian settlement which later became a village and, subsequently, a neighbourhood within Königsberg — Ponarth. The name is believed to mean either behind the edge or diving, submerging, whirling. In both cases, it clearly refers to the Pregel and its wetlands which still separate this part of Kaliningrad from the historic down-town.

    Kievskaya Street, one of Ponarth’s main axes. Notice the pre-war tram rails. They are not in operation anymore.

    Ponarth’s golden age began in mid-19th century along with advancing industrialisation and construction of the East Prussian Railway, connecting Berlin with Königsberg. The rural village quickly transformed into a town with a bourgeois park, a neo-Gothic church, a sports club, and a brewery. Especially the latter became main stimulus for the settlement’s growth. Founded in 1849, the brewery produced over 100,000 tons of beer a year by the end of the century, making it was famous across all Germany.

    The memory of Ponarth Brewery in all its naïve charm.

    Such mass-scale production required manpower which an ordinary village could not provide. In late 19th century, Ponarth’s became a town in its own right with over 8,000 inhabitants. Construction of houses that followed the population boom blended it into Königsberg proper and, starting from 1905, Ponarth functioned as a suburban district of East Prussia’s capital. It has been busy and lively every since, always retaining a colouring of its own.

    A brutalist Soviet sign informing there is a pharmacy nearby.

    The Second World War left Ponarth damaged, but not destroyed, similarly to the west of Königsberg (usually referred to as Amalienau or Hufen). Most importantly, the district’s main factories continued to function. As military officers and clerks moved in comfortable villas and semi-detached houses of Hufen, so did industrial workers in poorer dwellings and brick houses of Ponarth. This made Ponarth repopulate quickly with newcomers from all over the Soviet Union even though some factory equipment was disassembled and moved to other parts of the country as reparation for war losses. In 1947, two years after the war had ended and a year after Königsberg was renamed into Kaliningrad, Ponarth got incorporated into the newly established Baltiyskiy Rayon (Baltic District).

    New inhabitants did not feel at home in former East Prussian, portrayed as outpost of German militarism and nest of fascist invaders. It took them decades to start domesticating the space. During this time, gradual decay of the Soviet economic model felt even more painful in a remote corner of the empire where wartime damages had never been fully repaired. Already in post-Soviet Kaliningrad, the name Baltrayon became a local synonym for shabbiness and roughness. Some people even called it ‘the bear’s corner’, advising not to go there without a clear reason.

    At the same time, Ponarth existed as a symbol of old, better times, free from the worries of today although it was largely a prefigurative illusion. Whereas Baltrayon was liquidated in 2009 as a result of administrative reform, Kaliningraders have kept memory of Ponarth’s charming distinctiveness.

    Most people who know something about the history of Kaliningrad/Königsberg and East Prussia remember the Zhigulyovskoye beer which continued the pre-war traditions of Brauerei Ponarth. Buildings of the historic brewery are still there although now a large part of them is in very poor condition and is unable to serve its purpose. It would not be easy to achieve anyway since memory politics in Russia have narrowed the space for free use of pre-1945 references. This is something I will address in my second post about Ponarth where I revisit my own thoughts on the district and its dwellers.

    Negligence, economic transition and political turmoil have all left their mark on Ponarth brewery.

    Is it justified to say that the spirit of Ponarth still wanders around the district? On one hand, the neighbourhood has been part of Soviet/Russian Kaliningrad for over 75 years. Its inhabitants, street names and many other things have altered since 1945, resulting in many elements of the pre-war material and non-material culture sinking into oblivion. On the other hand, the memory of Ponarth, its rich history and charm not only has survived but has also been cherished by many contemporary Kaliningraders. Plus, even they keep using the old name. At least in this sense Ponarth has withstood the test of time.

    What is bothering is the shrinking space for different narratives on the past in contemporary Russia. With the war in Ukraine continuing and Russian economy suffering from the Kremlin’s policies, the authorities are using history to draw people’s attention to non-material issues and distract them from the actual problems. In today’s Kaliningrad Oblast, tales of Russia’s military glory over the centuries are dominating. It is a bad sign for inclusive, community-building memory about the past of places such as Ponarth.

  • Revisiting Ponarth 2: Time Reveals More Tensions

    Revisiting Ponarth 2: Time Reveals More Tensions

    Over the last months, I have been revising the manuscript of my book on memory politics in post-Soviet Kaliningrad Oblast. While looking at spatial changes in post-1946 Kaliningrad city, which was called Königsberg before that, my eyes turned to Ponarth, the city’s southern suburbs, spared from destruction.

    As it often happens, I re-scanned the negatives and reflected upon them instead of pushing the manuscript forward in a more direct way. It is a story of an urban Atlantis in former East Prussia which, although damaged and transformed, continues to live in a sea of growing hatred towards alternative, non-state-sanctioned views at the past of a once multicultural, multiethnic and multi-religious East Prussian oikumene.

    Pre-war buildings continue to exist in Ponarth although decades of negligence have taken their toll.

    In mid- to late 19th century, Ponarth was a true signum temporis. East Prussia, a province of Kingdom of Prussia and, since 1981, German Empire, was predominantly rural, with few towns larger than 5,000 inhabitants. Its capital Königsberg was an exception to this rule. It was created as a fortress during the medieval conquest of pagan Prussians by the Teutonic Knights. The city quickly became a trade outpost located a the Pregel River estuary, as well as a cultural centre. When the last Grand Master Albrecht Hohenzollern secularised the Order and pronounced himself the first duke of Prussia, the ongoing advancement of Reformation fuelled local explosion of religious writing in languages of the believers. Polish and Lithuanian found their way into Königsberg’s university, the Albertina.

    The city’s ties with Cracow, Vilnius, Gdańsk and Warsaw in the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth were stronger than those with Berlin in the Duchy of Brandenburg and, later on, Kingdom of Prussia. The birth of modern European nationalism, however, changed everything. Wars than Prussia fought in 1860s and in 1870s led to the establishment of united and ambitious German Empire. Just like in the case of Italy a decade earlier, although German nation-state was finally created, it still needed its inhabitants to feel a strong bond with this new political entity.

    What helped was the railway. Until the early 20th century, mostly rural East Prussia enjoyed dense connections with other parts of the country. It led to mass-scale migration of East Prussians to factories in west Germany. If you are a fan of football, you surely know Borussia Dortmund. The club’s name is nothing less than the Latin name of (East) Prussia.

    It was the pursuit for unified German identity that first put the East Prussian microcosm at risk. The push for ethnic, linguistic and cultural unification grew after the First World War when the province was separated from the rest of Germany, becoming a semi-exclave. An area that had always lied at the intersections of different worlds was to exemplify purest Germanness. When Hitler came to power, this axiom overclouded most of the memory of recent heterogeneity of the country’s easternmost province.

    Factory chimneys look odd in a place where most industry was either shutdown or moved to other region of the post-war Soviet Union as part of the reparation programme.

    But let me come back to Ponarth alone. Industrialisation of the province was selective and mostly affected Königsberg and its surroundings. This is how Ponarth was born. It was the city’s southern suburb, located conveniently by a railway hub. In turn, factories provided fertile ground for the development of residential quarters. In just three decades, Ponarth transformed into a full-fledged, bustling city district as its population rose 18 times — from 450 inhabitants in 1871 to over 8,000 in 1900.

    I got interested in Ponarth when I was posted to Kaliningrad as a Polish diplomat. It was the fall of 2020. New wave of covid-19 pandemic was rising. There were not many group activities one could engage oneself in. Taking my camera, staying within the city and walking around was as safe as it was exciting.

    Ponarth’s old brewery.

    I was amazed by the initial, seeming congruence of pre-war urban planning and the existence of pre-war building with the new Soviet and Russian layer of social life in Ponarth. The moment I got off my car and set foot at a street surrounded by regular and modest brick houses, covered in asphalt with high kerbs and many 20- and 30-year-old cars parked alongside, I knew I was in a place that was not what it seemed.

    Seeing Eastern European-style street market opposite a redbrick neo-gothic Protestant-turned-Eastern-Orthodox church, inscriptions in Cyrillic and people wearing typical Russian clothes made me feel odd although I was used to seeing that during the years I had researched identity-related processes in Kaliningrad. I saw discomfort mixed with a feeling of belonging to a place still foreign architecture-wise, developed over merely 75 years of the Soviet and Russian history of this place. Given the fact that Ponarth was founded as a village in the Teutonic Knights times, those three generations accounted for merely one tenth of its existence. And it showed.

    In the Soviet reality, churches like the one above could only be spared by using them for non-religious purposes, such as concert halls, theatres, warehouses and houses of culture. When the Soviet Union collapsed and the Orthodox Church entered a formal and increasingly tight relationship with the Russian state, many pre-war building in East Prussia were given to the Church and transformed into places of Orthodox worship. Traditionally, they would have gold-plated (gilded) onion domes which look rather opulent. Adding them to Ponarther Kirche creates a contradiction between the austere Protestant aesthetic and the Eastern Orthodox lusciousness. Look up the interior online and the dissonance will become even greater.

    Despite all streets and public places were renamed after the war, it is not uncommon for Ponarth’s inhabitants to use historic names. The name of the district itself proves it.

    I decided to write about Ponarth again because of developments in Russia related to memory politics I have been closely following. The material and spiritual legacy of East Prussia, treated with hostility and suspicion already in the Soviet times but spontaneously explored by Kaliningrad Oblast’s inhabitants, has again become an object of criticism due to the shrinking space for grassroots initiatives that do not follow the line set out by the federal authorities somewhere around 2012–2015. It was the time when last mass protests took place across the country. Concerned about their scale, the Kremlin embarked on a series of identity-related policies while crushing any signs of political opposition. We saw a tragic postscript to these processes in mid-February.

    The battle over different interpretations of collective memory about what is and used to be Russia has become even more fierce in a region that has been part of the country for merely three quarters of a century. The Oblast is to become a role model for contemporary Russian civilisation which not only protects its canonical territory but also has the vital strength to expand onto what was once part of the Western (German, European, Protestant or Western Orthodox — you name it) civilisation in the Huntingtonian sense of the term.

    This logic suggests that places like Ponarth with its eclectic past and present should disappear in one war or another. It could happen by gradual liquidation of objects that still remind the district’s non-Soviet and non-Russian past. It could also mean more traditional Russian architecture, such as white-and-gold Eastern Orthodox churches, museum telling the glorious past of imperial and Soviet Russia and by massive, multi-storey blocks of flats that span all over the country — from Kaliningrad to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy.

    In contemporary Russia, space for such small enclaves of modest diversity as Ponarth is shrinking dramatically. Does it mean that the tension between the past that has not disappeared entirely and presence that is becoming increasingly oppressive will ease? I doubt it. Oftentimes top-bottom attempts to accelerate the natural apace of assimilation with and internalisation of new cultural surroundings lead to feeling of belonging even less.

    The principal question is how to come to terms with the fact that the dominating role of the Russian language and culture is still a new phenomenon from the perspective of the last 800 years. Russia’s current political regime might change at some point but how will it affect situation on the ground in Kaliningrad? Will new federal authorities see a value in the remaining traces of diversity of a region that had once been full of different tongues, religions and ethnicities?

    I intend to come back to these questions in a different story, this time about the village of Pribrezhnyi not far away from Kaliningrad. There, Soviet times star at you from every corner in a depressing way. In Pribrezhnyi, you can see that the pre-1945 humble rural reality of East Prussia feels like a surprisingly attractive reference point given the level of contemporary decay. Just 25 kilometres from the border of the European Union, it is a strikingly accurate sample of where things stand in today’s Russia.

You cannot copy contents of this page.